Before that, I went on a walk, I took the tram as far as I could, and then kept walking. I wanted to see a few palaces, and a former palace that was a hotel. I walked, and walked, and walked. I hadn'y seen anything in a while, when the four seasons popped up. I decided to stop in and ask the concierge, and inquire about the Hamam there. It's very interesting. I could rent the Hamam for 360 Turkish Lira for one hour, or do a treatment, which would include the Hamam, but was only 180. The reception looked at the numbers also somewhat confused. Basically, if you get a massage, it's cheaper and you still get the Hamam. But it's not what I am looking for. This is renting out the Hamam for single use. Perhaps the Sultan wanted that privacy, and the hotel was trying to convey that there, guests are like sultans, but in reality I see them as the centers of community (more so for women who otherwise in ancient times not as visible in public life). They are places to go and be with other people.
I opted instead to get some advice from the concierge on places to walk, and then headed to their amazing terrace for a calamari and to try turkish beer.
It was a lovely place to sit, and they really took care of me. I was right on the waters edge with a beautiful view of asia, and in the distance, the suspension bridge connecting the european and asian sides of Istanbul. The attentive manager noticed I was alone, and came over to offer me the herald tribune (ny times international edition) and gave me some olives as well. Once I had paid, I was thanked by name as I left by everyone from the manager to the bus person. It was very nice to be pampered - though I suppose you do pay for it in the rather pricey calamari, but it was pretty perfect I admit.
I continued, and stopped in at the Cirigan palace, which from the outside looks rather unassuming. The 25k Euro pricetag on the main suite though says a different story - one that is understood when you come into the lobby. It's stunning. just stunning. I went through and walked out to the pool, which sits just feet from the Bosphorus, then walked around the grounds a bit before continuing my walk.
Yaldiz, the park, was calm and quiet. I imagine you can see trends in a city's wealth and the amount of park space it has both in actual and relative amounts (percentage wise). Being a sunday, many couples were out enjoying the open air with picnics. Children ran about, and there was a beautiful fountain on the top by a cafe. It was simply picturesque. I walked down through some more neighborhoods, but most of it was closed, and came across the W hotel, where I stopped to ask for directions to Taksim square (think Bloody Sunday). It sounded complicated, they recommended a cab, I asked how much. 5 Lira. Sounds good, and I am glad. It was over a hill that would have been unpleasant to walk, not much of a sidewalk. I tried before though to check out the rooftop bar for a tea, but it was very overpriced (25 Lira cocktails) and only a view of the back of the surrounding buildings. The bartender was a rather pushy woman as well in terms of sitting and ordering. I politely declined, and left for Taksim.
Meandered the square, and then decided it was time for baklava. It's a personal rule here for me not to go more than 18 hours without Baklava, and that is the extreme, I prefer the 6 hours of waking time. It's just so good. I went for the whole plate option at a little cafe, and then meandered to the train station. I saw the Tower of Galatar (spelling?) but decided it wasn't worth waiting to just climb up and down it, having already had some spectacular city views. I do want to see the city at night, perhaps tomorrow I can arrange something.
Tram back to the hotel.
Then it was time for Hamam.
They were having trouble with the credit card machine, I would prefer to use my Amex I explained - I have been getting better rates in exchange with them (I also like my points, which are maybe a penny on the dollar, but personally very fulfilling to watch grow towards a plane ticket or something else). No luck, finally, after multiple tries, they gave up, and we used my visa to pay. They felt bad, and gave me a free facial in addition to the treatment - I went for the scrub, wash, and shampoo.
It was good, but to tender. I had promised to write Susannah afterwards. I told her that I preferred Morocco in my email, except that here there was a giant circle of marble where everyone was at the same time. No separate sauna / steam room type deal or bath. You layed on the hot marble slab, sweated, and went to the sides to pour some water. When your body was perspiring enough, the man came and scrubbed you down. But not hard enough. I could have exfoliated many times more. Then washed, then shampooed in another room. Facial was also in another room. After, I went back and spent another 45 minutes or so enjoying the heat and letting my body perspire some more before showering, and heading upstairs to sleep for a while.
A cup of tea, and I left having completed my first Turkish Hamam experience.
I think I will continue the resting in my own bed, until tomorrow morning when I have an exciting opportunity to see the Ahrida synogogue at 10:30AM.
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