Saturday, August 15, 2009

catching up

After Florence, I caught a train to Pisa. Not nearly as exciting as I thought it was going to be. Took some photographs and headed to Rome. Rome is like a museum with a little city amidst it, everything is ancient, and right out there. Of course, if they can, they'll charge you an arm and a leg to look at it. I did the tourist circuit.

Rome was especially awesome because I wasn't in a hotel, I was staying with Karenina's friend, Maurizio. He was a super chill economist who lived in a neat neighborhood with great access to the metro. I could almost land on it if I stepped out from our doorstep and leaped three times.

Rome was Rome, it's a wonderful city, I posted some pictures, you should visit. I saw lots and lots and lots of art. I ate amazing Gelato, and I was treated to lunch by the guide from the Synogogue.

Back to Maurizio.

Unfortunately, our schedules didn't line up that well, so we didn't spend much time together. I was coming in earlier than he was, and leaving before. The last night, however, after dinner in the Jewish Quarter, which was excellent, I stumbled back to the apartment carrying the weight of an entire 750ml + 1 Glass of wine in my veins. I probably would have been fine at that point. Do you want some vodka (no, unfortunately, he did not offer Vode-ka). At first I was hesitant, and then I decided, it was my last night in Rome, I should sit and talk. We stayed up for hours, and being an excellent host, Maurizio kept my glass always full. I guess I wasn't really noticing. Went to bed at three, woke up still drunk. I know because I was talking to myself in German, something I tend to excel at - my german gets better when I have a glass of something strong, and because I felt like I was run over multiple times by a tractor and it's trailor. I had only slept a few hours. The walk to the train station was murder, each step painful. The train was excruciating. The flight was really the end, I think I held my breath most of the way from Rome to Athens. Landed alright in the end, I guess it wore off. No hangover, I was just still a little innebriated in the morning. Still didn't touch anything alcoholic through Milos, until I had a Mythos on Santorini this evening. One was enough as I was flooded by my recent memories.

Milos was pretty boring, not many young people. A nice family, well, parents were nice, took me out for lunch at the beach. I snorkeled a bunch, but saw a few pretty fish. It seems like carribean is the place you need to go for the colorful fish.

The room was gross, water from the faucet was yellow and there were hairs in the bed. Although, comparatively, the place I am writing this from, the mini bar has someone's half eaten cheese in it, not sure if we are going up or down. I wanted to take it out and throw it away, but it might start to smell. I do know all about smelly cheeses and heat after Milan this past winter.

I arrived on time in Santorini around noon.

The bus did not. I bought a calling card to inquire (I had made reservations the night before), and was told 45 minutes. 2 hours later, it arrived. I was already annoyed. Waiting is fine, it's free transportation, provided by the Hotel, but if she was honest, and told me 2 hours, i could have found a place for lunch, or made a decision, and shared a cab with people up to the town.

I arrived, and apparently, my reservation never came to their side. It arrived fine on my side, I had the confirmation number, and everything. Even my card has been charged by the company. I emailed them to ask. The woman insisted that if I wanted the room, I had to pay the full price - my deposit with the company I reserved through I would have to deal with on my own. I didn't feel like arguing anymore. Then she gave me the worst room. This hotel, which I chose for location and views, sells itself on breathtaking vistas. I have a wall. Another hotel's wall. I will have to find her tomorrow and straighten this out immediately.

Santorini is the epitome of touristy. I was reading some things, and it looks like this is pretty much what things have become. It's the same in East Hampton, the tourists used to come for the peace and quiet, the beaches, but they want their starbucks, can't live without that. And so, piece by piece, everything they came to escape slowly follows them here. And eventually, we just recreate our everyday world everywhere. Some vacation.

I have plans for the beaches tomorrow, and then a tour probably the following day. I decided to book a flight back, same price as ferry, but 45 minutes instead of 10 hours on regular or 5 on high speed. I hear that seeing the island from the water is incredible, and so I want to do that since I am flying out, no more boats.

The ads are everywhere: X thousands of years of history... And one mythical beer. Mythos

And it's served so cold here in Santorini that ice crystals have formed. The glass is icy!
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Off the front of the boat, Folegandros

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On the boat to Santorini

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Friday, August 14, 2009

Flashback to Florence

(wrote this a while ago, but didn't have internet access to post)

Someone told me that Florence has the highest density of art per square kilometer of any city or area in the world. That doesn’t surprise me at all considering it was home to the Medici family, one of the greatest patrons of the arts second perhaps only to the Catholic Church.

I checked into the first hotel that looked reasonable, had internet and was close to the station. I didn’t want to spend my time trying to save a few euros. Florence is also small, so location wasn’t of great importance. You can cross the city walking in under 20 minutes.

I set off from the Baglione the morning after my arrival, heading to the Academie. There was a tremendous line. On the way I stopped to see the home of the Medici family, and a massive church like Mausoleum for them as well. I asked about advanced tickets, and discovered that if you walked around the corner you could save a couple hours of waiting by booking an entry time. I booked it for right then, walked back, and went straight into the museum.

From there I worked my way down into the city from museum to museum until all the art started to just melt into one giant piece for me. Florence doesn’t just have art, it has incredible art, works of the Italian renaissance masters.

I started this trip with Velazquez’ Las Meninas, considered by many to be the greatest painting of all time, and a personal favorite of mine. In Florence, it was Pieta, David, Botticelli’s Venus, and the list continues.

The best exhibit I saw however was Michelangelo’s works juxtaposed with the photographs oby Maplethorpe. It was incredibly well done, rivaling even the Matisse Picasso I saw years ago that remains one of my favorite exhibits to this day.

During my second day, I met up with Peta – Shiva and I had met her and her boyfriend in Barcelona while at Champagneria, and then gone out together after for Sangria and cerveza. We went for an appertivo on a lovely rooftop bar, and talked about traveling and life. It was nice to have some conversation after a few days of silence (I don’t speak any Italian, so communication has been at a minimum. Mostly it would be me asking a concierge or receptionist one question, and him or her answering an entirely different question).

She offered to show me some more traditional restaurants, and we met up the following night. My last full day in Florence I went to the Uffizi galleries, the collection was amazing. At that point though, I couldn’t delineate anymore between the art, it was just a mass of color. I focused on seeing the works I wanted to, then took a nap in the afternoon after a long walk.

It rained!

I finally made use of that rain jacket I have been carrying around. Actually, by the time I went out, it had pretty much stopped. Peta took me to a very nice little place in a square, we had some type of meat rolled with a cheese, a sausage with sundried tomatoes and some cheese, and gnocchi. The Gnocchi was so filling, I wasn’t able to get through more than half of it. We also split some wine, and continued talking. Afterwards, we walked for a bit before she caught a cab home, and I meandered slowly back to my lodging.

This morning I went to Pisa!

Actually, it doesn’t really deserve an ‘!’, it’s a town that I imagine wouldn’t even be on the map save for a bad engineering project. There are numerous technical feats throughout Italy, Brunelleschi’s dome for instance, but it’s the failure that gets all the attention. A few photos around it, some water while I sit in the grass, and I decide that enough is enough, and catch a train to Rome.

Now I know what the machine was telling me, there are no reserved seats! I got on the train, and am currently sitting, but someone may take it. Hopefully not, everything else is reserved in the cabin I ended up in, so most likely the last one, if not already filled, will remain as such.

(Someone did take it. It made me very angry because they didn't have a seat either - I was taken advantage of by a group of italians, but I think I wrote about that already in another post).

End of an era...

Dearest Friend,

These past 5 years have been beyond memorable. The times we have spent together, both good and bad, are precious to me, as are the memories that we share. You never gave me a second look for wanting to do something extraordinary, and you were always there to remember, capturing the moment with me, there is little that I have done without you. You have been there for me without fail. It pains me that we find ourselves now at the end of a great journey together, ready to go our separate ways. I never expected us to get so close, nor last so long. Perhaps a year I thought we would last, but certainly nothing more than that. In so many ways, it will never be the same without you. You have been there for me without fail, and I have shared everything with you.

Why now, I wonder, amidst all the excitement, do you give up on us? I wonder if I have hurt you in some way? Was it something I did that caused you pain? I cannot for the life of me imagine, and yet I can tell you have lost your spark. You no longer react with excitement, and you’re not nearly as bright and cheery as you once were. Rather, you merely are, just going through the motions, and passing the time until the day comes when you no longer can do even the simplest task. I feel that day is near; even now you struggle to remember what you just saw with me only moments ago.

I am glad that you introduced me to your family, for as this friendship ends, I begin a new adventure, and your distant relative will be joining me – for this I thank you from the bottom of my heart. It won’t be the same, at least to begin, your replacement and I haven’t traveled the world together like you and I have – it’s going to take a while to get used to one another the same way that we have gotten to know each other these past years. I hope that your family is as strong as you have been for me, and the new friendship I forge can come close to what we once had.

I won’t forget you my friend – I’ll remember you when we first met, and the last time we looked out together, taking in the moment, catching a glimpse of reality and capturing it forever.

Be true to yourself and continue to do what you do best no matter where life takes you,

Your closest friend,

Jonathan







(closing your eyes for eternal peace)



I


Greek Isles

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Wednesday, August 12, 2009

A nice Kosher meal

In the roman (jewish) ghetto.
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Piazza campo De' Fiori

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Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Monday, August 10, 2009

Fontana Trevi

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The people helping me along the way with advice and bookings

A toast to those at amex!
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Rome!

I can't help but view Rome through the lens of Mel Brooks (movie: History of the World: Part I). It's a good thing I didn't go through spain humming, "the inquisition, let's begin... The inquisition, look out sin..."
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And looking into the Pantheon

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Looking out from the Pantheon

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Considering what they charge for this small bottle, it should cure cancer or make you be able to fly.

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Inside the casa di augusto

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Roman version of the bridge to nowhere

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Women had to sit separate in the coliseum

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Rome Metro

A '24' hour metro ticket in Rome is not what you think. Or at least I thought - a ticket good for 24 hours from validation. Nope. It's good until midnight of first use or date or purchase.

Misleading? I think so.
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Sunday, August 9, 2009

Train

There are assigned seats and those with general tickets. Mine has no seat, so I was told to sit wherever unless, someone had a ticket for a seat.

Four people yelling at me in Italian was the result, though none could produce a ticket for my seat. Two others quietly sitting, also italians. I think the theory was move the foreigner, and the other non assigned seat italians can stay. I argued I wanted to see a ticket for my seat, which was not produced.

--

So the conductor comes and one of the people who was yelling at me buys the seat at that point, she was lying. Good job on the foreign diplomacy Italy! The same woman I helped put her bags up into the rack, way to take advantage of the foreigner.
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In italy they celebrate the greatest engineering feats, and the failures

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It's leaning!

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The search for shoddy engineering in Pisa begins

Nothing gets a town on the map faster than imminent danger...
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