Shabbat, Board Games and Gossip

I didn't do much for Shabbat, but pleasantly was surprised when I was invited to the other apartment along with my roommates.  White shirt, purple kippa, red wine and we were off.  Jonathan and I may have been the most knowledgeable about Shabbat - which isn't saying much.  He said Kiddush, and then we washed, said hamotzi and ate.  I don't think anyone lit candles.  We never got to bensch at the end.

I was a pit perturbed by the cell phone usage.  I don't keep shabbat necessarily, but I find cell phones at the dinner table rather rude in any situation.  I didn't say anything as I was the guest.  The computer usage afterwards for music and facebook also wasn't quite in the spirit of shabbat.  I think if you do something, you should embrace it.  The music of shabbat should be our voices, either talking or singing.  It's a chance to reconnect - and the evening is made special because it is different from other nights.

I had some good conversation, excellent food, nice wine and a lovely cup of tea at the end.  Not as exciting as the previous night adventure to Tel Aviv, but still a lot of fun, enjoyable and relaxing.  When we eventually do dinner here, I will make sure that our guests check their coats and phones at the door.

As Shabbat ended, I decided to go back into Tel Aviv.  I spent the afternoon at the other apartment having a late lunch.  I decided to call Xan, and he invited me for dinner and boardgames.

It was awesome, we played Puerto Rico which is an awesome mercantile economic strategy game.  I had no strategy - but I was able to pick up the basic logistics of the game, and scored enough points that I didn't feel like a complete idiot at the end.  Dinner was excellent, and we stayed up talking over a second bottle of wine.  A wonderful night.

I stepped out around 11 and headed to Gossip, a club that reminded me very much like Ibiza.  It's actually 26+ for men, but I was going for a friend's Birthday.  Yael invited me, which was really amazing.  I never would have found this place or gotten in on my own.  Plus, somehow I must have been on some list, I was skipped to the front of the line and sent right in.

We danced for a while, did shots, danced some more, I met some of her friends, and then we left - me for Ramla, her for perhaps another club or home.  It was about 1 when we left.  I don't I can really describe it all that well - GOSSIP needs to be experienced.  It's like Ibiza light, but still full of energy!  I have been wondering what people mean by Tel Aviv being a party city, now I understand.  It was a lot of fun.

Later today (Sunday) begins a week of intense Ulpan, which I must get my sleep for - thus I will retire at this time.  Tomorrow I also want to head back to the library and help the kids out again.  I really enjoyed volunteering my time (in addition, I have to get my library card there and then go to the bank to get my bank card, and change my contact number now that it is set for each of these places).

Sweet Dreams Tel Aviv.

Impromptu Volunteering

Israel is a wonderful place because of the history and the people.  It's the latter I want to speak about.  After the lesson with Nir today on the history of Israel (I think they should consider having Neil Lazarus come speak, I found him to be great for giving a good overview of the current and historical political situation in Israel and the middle east.  He is a very engaging speaker.) I headed to the post office.  On the whole, that was not very exciting - but necessary.  During one of the breaks during the lesson, I spoke with Judita, and gave her a list of books to check out on the three Jewish waves of migration to the states, and a general book on the history of the United States (Zinn, "A People's History").

Afterwards I headed over to Hapoalim.  I ended up speaking with the branch manager.  It's one of the two big banks in Israel, Leumi is the other one - but a friend said they weren't thrilled with Leumi, and had heard good things about Hapoalim.     אתי (Eti short for Ester) was very helpful.  We figured out a way to get me a free bank account so that I wouldn't continue to get killed by high ATM fees.  Having an Israeli account also makes refilling my phone much easier.  I left with a bank account, and a new friend.  I can't say I ever left the bank knowing my managers favorite vacation spot (Thailand) and birthday.  We talked about good places to spend Pesach, and compared notes on various other places to travel to.

We have a date for next tuesday (well, actually, I just have to stop in to pick up my bank card then from the bank).

I got lost at that point, but luck had it that I wandered into the library.  I inquired about getting a card, and was told that I would need to pay 90 Shekels.  After some negotiating, we agreed that the fee could be waived, and I headed down to speak with the manager, Daniella (spelling???).

Out of the office at the moment.  drat.

I started to head out planning to come back later.  It was about half past noon.  Two young muslim girls - Noor and Hadeel (I found their names out later), two absolutely adorable children kept smiling at me, and asked me to sit down.  I figured them to be about 9 or 10.  For the next two hours we communicated through broken english, hebrew and on their part arabic.  They were incredibly sweet, smiling and laughing with me and sometimes at me. 

I helped them with their math homework, and we talked about our families (drawing family trees).  They wanted to know what my name meant, eventually we found a hebrew - english dictionary.  Suddenly I was surrounded by eager young children - children who wanted to learn.  It hurts me that this desire doesn't exist in children back home.  Here are kids who speak arabic and hebrew fluently, and want to learn english, broaden their horizons.

It was a moving moment, and I can't say that I feel like I am capturing it in words.  I am off to Tel Aviv - I am hoping to get a cheaper number from the phone company (Cellcom), we shall see how that works out. 

Expectations vs. Reality

When I selected the program, it looked like there are some killer apartments.  I asked my contact person about them, saying I couldn't believe these were reality.  Oh, the actual apartments are much better I was told.  We just don't want expectations to be let down.

See Oranim Accomodations website for Community Involvement

Complete lie!

We arrived at something completely different (pictures pending).

However, I was not willing to be pushed around - I am the consumer here (I know Nick is laughing at this point).  Hence, there are currently two cleaning people paid for by Oranim attacking the kitchen.  The living room is next, then the floors of the whole apartment.  I agree that maintaining the place is our responsibility, but it needs to start at an acceptable level - aesthetics aren't important, sanitary hygienic conditions are however.  Oranim's logic that the prior tenants were young and therefore irresponsible is simply not ok.  It's not our problem if two old ladies lived here or an entire fraternity was crashing prior to our arrival.  Between uses, the place should have been cleaned and made spotless.  All the crap that people left should have been removed before we even saw the place.

Our first full day in Ramla... Meetings, Negotiations etc.

Tuesday

"So how would you say this number?" Nir said pointing at me and at the white board where a two digit number was scribbled.

I lost it.

You aren't teaching, I said, you're just saying things quickly and assuming that we can understand you, read your handwriting, and comprehend all of this at the same time.  I asked you to write things in hebrew since the transliteration isn't helpful down the line, and you used cursive.  But most of us have only had traditional hebrew - what we need to read our torah portions.  I continued derailing the program director on his poor teaching skills.

After that he slowed down, but still lacked any cohesion in what he wrote.  I stopped taking notes, I will wait for the ulpan which begins in a few days, learning random phrases without really understanding what I am saying is not the learning I am looking for.

Ofir came, he is the head of the long term programs.  I listened, and was very quiet until the housing.  I cut into the conversation, and elaborated on what many in the group agreed.  We had expectations, and these expectations included a hygienic and clean place to live.  We shouldn't arrive to deal with someone else's mess.  I commented on the toothbrushes and other shit I had to clean up upon arrival.  I didn't even begin to address how misled we were.  I railed them for a good five minutes, about how aesthetics were not important, but that the level of cleanliness was unacceptable.  Without question, they need to hire a cleaning service to handle this so that we are arriving in a place that we don't need to bring up to expectations before living in.  I understand that maintenance of the apartment is on us, but that does not excuse them from starting it at a reasonable level.

My speech and holding their feet to the fire was applauded by my peers.

After the morning meeting I silently addressed Ofir regarding the other issues.  We arrived with no internet, and because of this, many couldn't email their parents to alert them that they had arrived safely.  I called Oranim to let them know about this situation, and they agreed to take down phone numbers and call the parents of those who wished it to let them know of the situation, but that their children were ok.  I found out this morning that no one had been contacted.

In retrospect, I didn't hear a thing from the organization after giving them my deposit.  Funny how that works.  I had to call to get the address of where I was going the night before I came to Ramla.  Not cool at all.

I then brought to his attention the smoking issue.  I specified one single concern, that I do not live with smokers.  Maybe they smoke outside, but their clothing smells.  Of course, two of my roommates smoke (they are very considerate smoking outside) but the fact that my wishes were not met when I was told specifically that it would not be a problem bothers me.

Finally, I reiterated to him that I was having trouble breathing from all the dust in the apartment.  It needs to be handled immediately I told him.

I don't know how they are going to respond to my volunteer idea.  I am going to be honest with them, this is my MASA grant, my time in Israel.  I am going to immerse myself in my ivrit (hebrew) studies, and I am going to do everything possible to set up my micro-finance organization.

The thing that amazes me most is the anti - arab sentiment.  There is a general fear and mistrust of two groups: arabs and cab drivers.  Having traveled extensively I agree with the second, cab drivers are known to take advantage of tourists.  However, for the second I am shocked at the close mindedness of the community.  The first thing I want to do is head to the arab side of town - I love Hamam, and I bet that there is one over there (Susannah told me that there are five things that one can find in any muslim community - including a mosque, public water source, two more things I can't remember and a Hamam!).  I wouldn't mind checking out some other cuisine as well to spice things up.

Mazi, one of our city coordinators, is coming in a while.  I think I hurt her feelings when I commented on the cleanliness of the apartments.  She claims to have scrubbed the place down - in which case, i am concerned about her perception of scrubbing and cleanliness.  She is supposed to get to know us a little - I am ready to start the ulpan - enough with the touchy feely bullshit.

It is an interesting contrast though.  Birthright is all about seeing the highlights of Israel, the most beautiful places, the trendiest nightlife, the hippest cafes, the nicest shopping.  Now we are working in the Ghetto, the other side, the places that birthright busses make sure to pass in the night or drive very far around.  Not for the faint of heart.

As I keep reminding myself, we live in the projects now.

Welcome to Ramla!

Conversations for the last week:

Them - "How long are you in Israel for?"

Me - "About six months"

Them - "Oh, WOW!  What are you doing here"

Me - "Ulpan and volunteer work"

Them - "Awesome.  Where?"

Me - "Ramla"

Them - [Look of shock and dismay]

Them  - [regain composure] "it's a rough town... mixed arab israeli"

Me - "I know"

They say that you get what you pay for.  Grants are covering this trip, and thus I am paying nothing.  Welcome to the projects.

The apartment is spacious and large, with three bedrooms (there are 5 of us, I am in the process of negotiating for the single room which happens to be the cleanest and with the most drawer space, and farthest from the road.  One bathroom, and a separate shower - so that's good.  Though, the sink is in the shower.  Washing machines are in the kitchen which is old and rickety.  Dust everywhere, I might need to get some allergy stuff.  I think the medical center is on the tour tomorrow.

I already went around and did some cleaning up.  I am going to have to email the office about this.  I asked how the rooms where compared to the photos, much nicer.  I was told.  I think they meant the opposite.

Internet is not working yet, we need a password.  I called about it, but was told I have to wait since they are handling other people.  It means I am going to write this now, but send it later.

There are two girls and three guys, myself included in the apartment.  Usually, to appease the religious, they don't mix men and women in Israel.  Apparently there are about 18 of us here starting the program at the same time.

It seems that no one else bothered to travel by train, they all opted for the taxi.  It just takes a shared taxi and a train to get here from Tel Aviv, so we will hopefully be doing that often.

I am going to focus entirely on the ulpan for now, language I feel is the entry into any civilization.  Understanding how a community speaks is understanding how it perceives the world, where emphasis lies can illustrate importance. 

All that aside, knowing Hebrew is a critical aspect of my journey here, and I would be much more comfortable if I were able to speak Ivrit.

Exploring Dizengoff Street

I slept in this morning, then took a nice long walk exploring Dizengoff street.  But not before returning for a fresh croissant at the same place.  Leslie, the receptionist at the hotel, was having trouble running my credit card, and left me a note so I had to clear that up as well.

I walked up to the shopping center, where I tried to have my phone fixed - the select button is stuck permanently  pressed down, which means that anytime the cursor moves, it is selecting things, so I can't easily read emails or respond to messages - or alternatively, I am responding too easily, sending lots of little messages.

After walking up and down Dizengoff, I stopped for a delicious cappuccino at Cafe Michal (230 Dizengoff St.) and relaxed for a while.  Unfortunately, with the drizzling rain in Tel Aviv, there isn't anywhere to sit and enjoy the ambiance, the benches are all soaking wet, and the cafes either full or so empty it was a bit eerie.

The train to Ramla is only 15 minutes and goes on the hour.  I will leave at 1:30 for the station, giving me plenty of time to make my way to the station, buy my ticket and get from the next station to meeting spot (of course the information is in the broken phone, so that could take a while to get into as well).

A new israeli adventure

Driving into Ben Gurion Airport with more than 40 of my newest friends and acquaintances last night was a bittersweet moment.  It marked the end of a whirlwind adventure, my second Taglit (Birthright) trip through Israel, although this time as a staff.

It was both fascinating and exciting to redo the trip I recall so fondly from my youth - we visited many of the same sites, and so I was able to see how the political landscape has changed and also how birthright has changed.  Gone are the days where it was 10 days of mayhem, bring in the new era of responsibility.

As the last of them checked in, Dorit (my co-staff) and I made our way to the train.

Drat!

We missed it by a few moments, coffee and a change of plans, Dorit went to meet a friend and I headed back to Tel Aviv on my own. 

I guess I wasn't aware how close it was, since I was supposed to get off on the first stop.  But after running into friends on the train, I ended up over shooting quite a bit.  I debated a taxi, and instead waited 1 hour for the southbound train to correct this mistake.

Then, i ended up walking back from the station anyway, and arrived just a few minutes back at the hotel where I was sharing a room with Dorit (the same hotel that we had ended birthright at).  We both promptly fell asleep, awaking this morning early, and not nearly refreshed.  Dorit left for a talk (I would have loved to have gone, but it was being given in Hebrew) so I slept in, and looked for a hotel and wrote some emails.

When Dorit returned, we found me a hotel, and I headed there.  Dorit tagged along, then left - staying with family elsewhere this evening.  Leslie, the woman at the front desk helped me find my way.

My room is a small suite, complete with kitchen and refrigerator - very very very nice.  (Thank you Dorit!).  I left my luggage and headed out towards Neva Zedek.  What I love about Israel is the people.  I stopped for a croissant (it was amazing, warm and with some kind of almond inside, enough filling to really enjoy) and asked for directions.  The lady in the bakery made sure I got to the right place, and even came out to correct my mistake of standing at the wrong bus stop.

I arrived a few minutes later in what I would call the new york style west village of Tel Aviv.  After meandering for a few minutes, I settled on a nice little outdoor cafe - Suzana (www.rest.co.il/suzana) - where I had a 1/2 Tuborg, a salad that was so fresh, it literally continued to grow on my plate, and a small hot loaf of bread straight from the oven that was divine.

I spent my time reading there, then continued to walk the area, peering into shops and exploring as I went.  An orthodox gentleman asked if I would join a minyan, but I declined - I was still getting my bearings.  That was a mistake, it would have been a good opportunity to meet new people.  I think my new rule for Israel will be not to say "no" to new experiences.

I walked back along the beach, watching surfers and children play.  Stopping at the Kind David Continental, I asked the concierge about Hamam.  It's very expensive here.  I meandered into the basement where a conference was going on.  I decided to attend.  At first, I started to leave, taking a goodie bag when it was offered.  Then remembering my new mantra, no "no", I came back down.  By the second station, it was a tasting for some kind of soft drink, I was surrounded by three security guards, and promptly removed from the conference (and they took back the nice computer bag which would have been sweet for me to use here!) forcefully.  I debated returning, but chose to enjoy some of the weather while it was still beautiful out.

Back at the hotel, a nap seemed like a good idea.  I was out before my head hit the pillow.  When I awoke, I was hungry, so I headed to Aroma cafe around the corner.  A salmon sandwich to go, and a goldstar from the market next door and some ferrero rocher.

Dorit emails - she's far outside of Tel Aviv proper, and won't be around this week.  I decide to stay in and be well rested, update my blog.

That's all.  Except for the strange white circle bruise that is on my knee that developed this afternoon.  I don't remember hitting anything, but maybe I banged it a little while carrying my luggage.

A new adventure

Ten days ago I arrived in Israel as a staff member for a Taglit (birthright) trip. The posts that follow will be documenting my new adventure as I do volunteer work in Ramla, Israel. I invite you to follow my travels and work, and comment when something of interest arises.