To hamam tonight or not?
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Saturday, August 22, 2009
Turkish coffee = insomnia
Just looking at it makes me grind my teeth. That first sip, the grinds running past your lips, scalding the tip of your tongue. What a drink. I think one should keep me awake for the rest of the week.
Friday, August 21, 2009
Athens to Istanbul
I went to bed last night around 5:30 AM. Vasianna, a bartender I met while having lunch, had taken me out and then I was online for a while after that doing some things, including a blog entry. Four years of Engineering allowed me to easily arise early, around 9 AM. only a few hours following my sleep. All those 8:30 AM classes paid off in more ways than expected in the long run. I did some packing, and luckily, my stuff had dried. The air conditioner during the day had leaked water all over some things, and I was worried about packing wet clothes. Crisis averted, except for a few socks and smaller items. It did make the room a lot less dry though, which was nice.
I got up early, with nothing in particular to do, moved my stuff down to the left storage and spent a few hours doing some research for Istanbul, checking flights and just relaxing. I also read a little of Plato's Phaedrus. The book I have been slowly digesting, The Spell of the Sensuous (David Abram), has been discussing it, and I happened to find a copy in the little library at the Tempi Hotel (which I highly recommend for location, just ask to be on a low floor)! It's approximately 95 steps up to the fifth floor from the reception which is already up a flight of stiars, and while my leg muscles look great, and it kept me from coming back to often without good reasons, it was a long way up and down each time I had a question about the internet or something else.
Alice joined me as well, and I related to her the epic that happened on her floor which I heard while hiking up to my room. We laughed, shared more stories of traveling, and talked for a while. I asked if she and Amy wanted to do lunch later - and we agreed on something light. Around 1:30PM, I was starving, and we decided to go. Amy wasn't up, so we set off to find a Taverna or something simple. We ended up spending the afternoon over traditional greek fare (I had the moussaka, she had the greek salad and we split a bottle of white Santorini wine) continuing our conversation of places we've been, and want to go, sharing stories of family and friends. It was really lovely, such that I lost track of time. We had to run back to the hotel, where I had them call me a cab, said good bye to Alice and Amy, and headed to the airport. Had the plane not been late, I should have known I could count on that, it would have been very close. I had a tax free item to be stamped, and my boarding pass to print. It was mayhem in the Olympic airways line. I finally got up there, picked my seat, and then headed to customs, and passport control. I had to explain that I was traveling from the EU and hence didn't have an entrance stamp, and finally got to the waiting area.
I ended up sitting next to two women from Australia, one was a web designer, the other I never caught her profession - but they said they worked together, so I imagine also in technology in some aspect. I was apparently asleep for take off, and woke up half way into the short flight. We left a half hour late, still managed to arrive only a few minutes late, and it was only a 55 minute flight. I am rather impressed. I wonder if being late is just built into the flight plan.
The women had just done a european sprint tour over a course of a month, hitting spain, france, UK, Greece, and Turkey. One was headed home, the other to Iraq. She was telling me about blood tests to cross the border. I don't like needles, neither does she.
After we landed, I found my bags, and the airport pickup sent from the hote quite quickly, changed money, and departed for the hotel. It was very nice and leisurely. When I arrived, they had someone come help with the bags, and some tea for me while I checked in. They offered some suggestions for tomorrow, and I found a tour that would give me a basic layout of the city. I already set up a tour of the Synogogue for Monday, and have to arrange a trip across for dinner or lunch at Paula's suggestion at a place her friend owns.
After putting my stuff into my room, I returned to the lobby and headed out. It is the first night of Ramadan, and it felt like the whole city was out. Of course, I have no baseline - but there was a vibrant feeling in the air, like the city itself was alive. I started with some Baklava. Amazing. Kebab. Not so amazing. Corn. Eh... another sweet thing, Amazing, Fresh Orange Juice - Yummy! I am afraid the food is going to be the death of me here, I might have to request a second seat on the airline. It's all so good. I can't wait to see more tomorrow.
Thursday, August 20, 2009
Last night in Athens
It's nearly 5 AM friday morning, and I can't get the internet to work. The last 24 hours have been rather fascinating. I started out this morning with a decision to head to the beach. I found the bus, after much confusion, and eventually ended up heading south towards the beach. I missed the stop, and decided to see more of Greece, so I rode it to the end. I also heard that Zeus' Temple was at the end. It's not, you need another bus, which I decided after waiting quite some time, wasn't coming.
I stepped into the local supermarket, bought some lunch items, and found a bus heading back towards the beach. This time I did get off - and went to check out the healing spa waters. Eight euros for a dip in some mineral waters wasn't my cup of tea, and I crossed the street to the park. I wasn't keen on paying to use the beach, but since I had come this far, I figured I might as well. Beach was alright. Very level, clear water, warmish, but very windy. I spent the rest of the day there, and then came back to the hotel in the evening, via bus as well.
I was starving, the lunch stuff was awful, so I went to the cafe next to mine. It was a neat little place, somewhat modern and trendy. The outside tables were all full, and so I sat at the bar. Vasianna, the bartender, was having a slow evening so far, and so she spent her time chatting with me. As I eventually finished up my sandwich and drink, she was kind enough to invite me for a drink after she gets off from work.
I returned to the hotel, and met two girls in their senior years of school, Alice and Amy. Alice goes to Stanford and happens to know Gus, a guy I went to High School with (Rachel and I ended up accidentally crashing his Bar Mitzvah many years ago, we just happened to be at temple, and his parents were kind enough to invite us to the lunch after. We ended up having a very interesting conversation with Dick Morris.) We compared travel notes, and after a while they kindly invited me as well to go out tonight. Wow, three nights in Athens, and all the invitations come the same evening! What poor luck. I came back to my room to find worse luck.
The Air conditioner had been leaking water all over my clothes. Everything I wanted to pack tonight needs to dry first! The hotel offered to change rooms, but that doesn't really solve my problem of not being able to pack. I said I would handle it in the morning, layed out my stuff and took a short nap.
Vasianna sent me a message, and I headed down. I thought we would walk, but we went to her car, and were off to another part of the city. It was a long drive, but nice to see areas I wouldn't have seen otherwise. We arrived in a nice neighborhood, and went to a modern bar called chic. Two beers and a glass of oyzu, for me to try.
It is still to recent from the Vodka night with Maurizio (woke up still innebriated the next morning when I needed to fly from Rome to Athens), and I couldn't stomach it. After some good conversation, we headed to a Souvlaki place - I had the chicken, and then she dropped me off. All in all, about three and a half hours. I really enjoyed it. Unfortunately, she won't be around tomorrow, she has a friend in town from London, and will be heading over to see her.
I also stayed out late, and thus Amy and Alice were already in (their key was not in the cubby at the reception at least). I sent them a text message and hopefully we can get something together food wise tomorrow. I enjoyed exchanging travel stories with them both, and they had some great ideas for Istanbul. I doubt it was one of them as I imagine they are sharing a room, but when I passed their floor, at around 4 AM, someone was having a really good night. They must have heard my footsteps on the stairs, I heard a man's voice tell the woman to be quieter, and then it continued. She was giving a Meryl Streep Performance, to steal the line from a silly movie I saw last year.
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Dinner
Smoked salmon, cream cheese, horse radish, lemon juice, dill, letuce sandwich and a peroni draft.
Should be interesting. On a side note, having trouble getting online to book hotel for Istanbul.
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Beach
So there's a kid with it all-snorkel, mask, fins and floaties. Maybe 4 years old. A girl, about same age sneaks up on him and blows down the snorkel. Kid jumps up, and a chase begins. For about 5 meters, until the kid gets distracted, and he's back to looking at the sand under the water.
To swim once more or not... It means traveling back on the bus with a wet bathing suit.
I think I have had enough for now, there will always be another chance to take a dip in the sea.
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If you were here, you could be sitting in that empty chair looking at clear blue water all the way to the horizon
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Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Greek Taxi Driver
I keep hearing about this magical taxi driver, so I finally did some searching and found his website. I have to say, I am interested. Next time I am in greece, if we have enough people, I might be interested. Unfortunately, it doesn't make much sense at this point for one person.
Snack
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I think I wrote a paper on these column women in high school - but I can't remember it at all
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Back into the thin medal body object...
...To hurtle through the space time continuum from Thira to Athens.
Land at 9:25ish local time. Staying at the Tempi hotel. Back to classical culture explorations tomorrow morning. To Istanbul Friday.
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Last day in Santorini
Most of the time it feels like a shopping mall, with many ameican brands in small overpriced stores. 'Greek food' options consist solely of Souvlaki, greek salad, and one or two other items. Most of the menu's are international unfortunately.
I am looking forward to Istanbul though, it should be fascinating and less european (at least I won't be paying in euro's for things!). It will be interesting to cross to the asian side and see if there are noticeable differences.
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Monday, August 17, 2009
Boat tour around Santorini
Today, I finally succumbed, and went on a tour - seeing a series of not so thrilling things. These included a Volcano, which is responsible for the islands, but remains dormant. Then there were hot springs. I would think thermal springs means hot, as in caliente! I also think of enclosed areas. These were just areas where the water was luke warm. Not exactly refreshing or rejuvenating. I did enjoy diving off the boat though when I felt like the line to get into the water seemed to long. In retrospect, I should have climbed higher, but that's ok.
In fact, when you came out of the water warmed by the hot springs, it was just a little inlet, then it was awful since you hit the other water which comparatively felt ice cold. On to some island, not very exciting, not well known for a reason. I hiked to the top where the town was. It was an awful town, mostly boarded up buildings, trash all over the place - no restaurants save a single one, so I decided to go back to the port. I found a place, asked if it was self service or full service. I was told table service, full, so I went and sat down. After a few minutes I tried to order, and was told it was only self service. So I got up, went and got food, and came back. It turns out, since I ordered a lamb kebab, it had to be delivered, so I sat and munched on French Fries while I waited for my kebab.
When I came back from ordering food, my seat had a bag on it, so I started to sit at the next table. No... No... I heard, we were holding your table for you. Then the couple asked me if I remembered them, I paused, and then recalled. You were also watching the sunset last night I asked. They smiled, and invited me to sit with them. Like most people I have met on my trip in Greece, they were from Paris. She is a lawyer and he is an artist who works for an automobile manufacture doing design mock ups using clay and other materials for prototypes. Sounded very interesting. We got back on the boat together (the lamb was awful, mostly fat) and talked about things. The next stop was Oia, but first we drove over some reefs. It was the highlight of the trip because of the glass bottom, we could see the reefs very clearly.
They got off in Oia for the sunset (which is not for a couple more hours I thought), and I continued back to Fira. They invited me to dinner, and said they would email me later this evening about where to meet up.
The hike up from the port was not that much fun. To begin, the sun was on my back most of the time and it was very hot. But then, to make matters even worse, all the donkeys and everything they left behind was sitting in the sun, cooking. It reeked of donkey, and every step became about avoiding feces. It took a nice hike up and turned it into a stinky activity. I arrived in Fira town, soaked in sweat from the heat. Bought a large bottle of water, and made my way to the hotel where I dropped my bag, and dove into the pool.
I was hoping to get internet, but it looks like I will have to upload this using my blackberry. I discovered a neat little trick where I transfer the text files on the mini sd card on the computer to the blackberry, then send them from there to the blog. Had I thought of this earlier, I could have posted much more realtime while traveling on the train. I take a taxi tomorrow afternoon to the airport, and from there, I fly to Athens.
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Sunday, August 16, 2009
Day at the Beach in Santorini
When traveling in Europe, the most important item you can pack are your sunglasses. I recently became a fan of Raybans. I like them because the aviators are timeless, and you can wear them with anything - thus making it very chic. Have shorts on, but want to get in the club - no problem, the aviators will pull away the bouncers attention and you'll be whisked in, VIP. They also are excellent and protecting your eyes. This is of course extra important when you are driving, or should I say racing against time, to Oia from Fira in order to catch a sunset on your moped. They keep the dust out, and glare away so that you can safely arrive.
Now, they do unfortunately fall short when you are returning after the sun has set on a road that makes peru's mountain routes and highway seem straight, with no guard rails, in the pitch black with a far less than adequate light on your moto. Not a good sign at all. It's probably the most and really only frightening experience of my trip, driving these death mobiles, and yet also the most exhilirating aspect of it as well.
I joined my french neighbors again, 3 lawyers and a consultant.
We spent the morning at the pool after breakfast for a bit reading, and then headed to a beach, finding a lovely little oasis of no-americans-heaven. It was beautiful, and they didn't mind that we just took over a corner of the bar and used it as our base for a day at the sea. What was really cool was the black sand!
After a nice day there, back on our motos, and off to the red beach. Arrived. Looked. Left.
We came back to the hotel, and they grabbed their stuff as they are returning to the mainland tonight before flying out tomorrow. I found out that despite telling me I could stay three nights, I am being kicked out of the hotel because they have decided to put up a group starting tomorrow. I found a place next door to hear for a few euro's less than what I am paying, and move there in the morning. I spend another night after tonight and then head back to Athens.
After we came back, I headed off to catch a sunset, and thus we come full circle to the beginning of this post.
We came back to the hotel, and they grabbed their stuff as they are returning to the mainland tonight before flying out tomorrow. I found out that despite telling me I could stay three nights, I am being kicked out of the hotel because they have decided to put up a group starting tomorrow. I found a place next door to hear for a few euro's less than what I am paying, and move there in the morning. I spend another night after tonight and then head back to Athens.
After we came back, I headed off to catch a sunset, and thus we come full circle to the beginning of this post.
At a little cafe on Santorini having lunch with my Parisian neighbors from the hotel
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