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Saturday, June 19, 2010
Friday, June 18, 2010
Munich
I went from my hotel this morning to explore the city. The bulk of the old city is in a small area, and so I was able to get a feel for things quickly. My german has continued to improve, and I pull out words from nowhere as I converse in the streets and in shops.
After finding the Residenz, a very large palace, I started chatting with an old woman (she was telling me about when the Nazi's came to town, and the saluting at some point - though I think she was very young at the time). She invited me to walk with her, speaking only in German to me. As she got more and more excited about telling me the history and about little shops and bakeries, her German went faster and faster. I made out most of what she was saying, and nodded affirmatively in all the right spots.
Eventually, I stopped to sit down and read for a bit, bidding her farewell. I decided to wait a few minutes, and instead headed to a shop. It is freezing here, and I wanted to find something warm. As I stepped into the shop, it started to downpour. Even though the place was kind enough to give me an umbrella, I decided to wait it out, having a lovely conversation with the shop keeper.
I meandered for the rest of the day, stopping only at a place called Spatenhaus for a late lunch, and then the hofbrauhaus for a liter of beer to watch the game. I ended up meeting various people, in fact, everyone I met today is in med school.
The game should have been a victory.
Very tipsy on nearly two liters of beer, I stumbled around the city for a bit. I had already done the residenz. Upon looking at my map, I saw the Synagogue listed. Being Friday, my natural inclination (after five months in Israel) was to inquire about services. I went in and was immediately approached by a man wearing a bow tie, a hat that greek orthodox priests wear and a tuxedo - with tails.
You have shabbos plans?
No
Good, you'll have shabbos by me.
Turns out he was the Rabbi / Chazzan. Another guy standing next to me was also offered the same, and we agreed to go together.
Between the dress of the congregants (lots of tuxedo's with tails, top hats, among other dress foreign to me) and the unusual melodies, if I stopped listening to the hebrew, and just focused on the sounds and sights, I might have mistaken myself for being in a church.
Shabbos dinner was very good, as was the conversation.
After I came back for my stuff and prepared for another long night. I prefer the beds on the trains.
After finding the Residenz, a very large palace, I started chatting with an old woman (she was telling me about when the Nazi's came to town, and the saluting at some point - though I think she was very young at the time). She invited me to walk with her, speaking only in German to me. As she got more and more excited about telling me the history and about little shops and bakeries, her German went faster and faster. I made out most of what she was saying, and nodded affirmatively in all the right spots.
Eventually, I stopped to sit down and read for a bit, bidding her farewell. I decided to wait a few minutes, and instead headed to a shop. It is freezing here, and I wanted to find something warm. As I stepped into the shop, it started to downpour. Even though the place was kind enough to give me an umbrella, I decided to wait it out, having a lovely conversation with the shop keeper.
I meandered for the rest of the day, stopping only at a place called Spatenhaus for a late lunch, and then the hofbrauhaus for a liter of beer to watch the game. I ended up meeting various people, in fact, everyone I met today is in med school.
The game should have been a victory.
Very tipsy on nearly two liters of beer, I stumbled around the city for a bit. I had already done the residenz. Upon looking at my map, I saw the Synagogue listed. Being Friday, my natural inclination (after five months in Israel) was to inquire about services. I went in and was immediately approached by a man wearing a bow tie, a hat that greek orthodox priests wear and a tuxedo - with tails.
You have shabbos plans?
No
Good, you'll have shabbos by me.
Turns out he was the Rabbi / Chazzan. Another guy standing next to me was also offered the same, and we agreed to go together.
Between the dress of the congregants (lots of tuxedo's with tails, top hats, among other dress foreign to me) and the unusual melodies, if I stopped listening to the hebrew, and just focused on the sounds and sights, I might have mistaken myself for being in a church.
Shabbos dinner was very good, as was the conversation.
After I came back for my stuff and prepared for another long night. I prefer the beds on the trains.
Munich
I went from my hotel this morning to explore the city. The bulk of the old city is in a small area, and so I was able to get a feel for things quickly. My german has continued to improve, and I pull out words from nowhere as I converse in the streets and in shops.
After finding the Residenz, a very large palace, I started chatting with an old woman (she was telling me about when the Nazi's came to town, and the saluting at some point - though I think she was very young at the time). She invited me to walk with her, speaking only in German to me. As she got more and more excited about telling me the history and about little shops and bakeries, her German went faster and faster. I made out most of what she was saying, and nodded affirmatively in all the right spots.
Eventually, I stopped to sit down and read for a bit, bidding her farewell. I decided to wait a few minutes, and instead headed to a shop. It is freezing here, and I wanted to find something warm. As I stepped into the shop, it started to downpour. Even though the place was kind enough to give me an umbrella, I decided to wait it out, having a lovely conversation with the shop keeper.
I meandered for the rest of the day, stopping only at a place called Spatenhaus for a late lunch, and then the hofbrauhaus for a liter of beer to watch the game. I ended up meeting various people, in fact, everyone I met today is in med school.
The game should have been a victory.
Very tipsy on nearly two liters of beer, I stumbled around the city for a bit. I had already done the residenz. Upon looking at my map, I saw the Synagogue listed. Being Friday, my natural inclination (after five months in Israel) was to inquire about services. I went in and was immediately approached by a man wearing a bow tie, a hat that greek orthodox priests wear and a tuxedo - with tails.
You have shabbos plans?
No
Good, you'll have shabbos by me.
Turns out he was the Rabbi / Chazzan. Another guy standing next to me was also offered the same, and we agreed to go together.
Between the dress of the congregants (lots of tuxedo's with tails, top hats, among other dress foreign to me) and the unusual melodies, if I stopped listening to the hebrew, and just focused on the sounds and sights, I might have mistaken myself for being in a church.
Shabbos dinner was very good, as was the conversation.
After I came back for my stuff and prepared for another long night. I prefer the beds on the trains.
After finding the Residenz, a very large palace, I started chatting with an old woman (she was telling me about when the Nazi's came to town, and the saluting at some point - though I think she was very young at the time). She invited me to walk with her, speaking only in German to me. As she got more and more excited about telling me the history and about little shops and bakeries, her German went faster and faster. I made out most of what she was saying, and nodded affirmatively in all the right spots.
Eventually, I stopped to sit down and read for a bit, bidding her farewell. I decided to wait a few minutes, and instead headed to a shop. It is freezing here, and I wanted to find something warm. As I stepped into the shop, it started to downpour. Even though the place was kind enough to give me an umbrella, I decided to wait it out, having a lovely conversation with the shop keeper.
I meandered for the rest of the day, stopping only at a place called Spatenhaus for a late lunch, and then the hofbrauhaus for a liter of beer to watch the game. I ended up meeting various people, in fact, everyone I met today is in med school.
The game should have been a victory.
Very tipsy on nearly two liters of beer, I stumbled around the city for a bit. I had already done the residenz. Upon looking at my map, I saw the Synagogue listed. Being Friday, my natural inclination (after five months in Israel) was to inquire about services. I went in and was immediately approached by a man wearing a bow tie, a hat that greek orthodox priests wear and a tuxedo - with tails.
You have shabbos plans?
No
Good, you'll have shabbos by me.
Turns out he was the Rabbi / Chazzan. Another guy standing next to me was also offered the same, and we agreed to go together.
Between the dress of the congregants (lots of tuxedo's with tails, top hats, among other dress foreign to me) and the unusual melodies, if I stopped listening to the hebrew, and just focused on the sounds and sights, I might have mistaken myself for being in a church.
Shabbos dinner was very good, as was the conversation.
After I came back for my stuff and prepared for another long night. I prefer the beds on the trains.
A first
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Thursday, June 17, 2010
Hotel Modern
You know it's a quality joint when the prostitutes smoke outside instead of in the lobby. They definitely rent rooms by the hour here.
Hotel Modern
Which you would never suspect from the website, or the reviews. Luckily, I have a sixth floor room. I closed the window, which is indeed soundproof as promised.
When I arrived, the front desk asked me to pay immediately. I looked at him, I would prefer to pay when I check out, which is how it is typically done, I said in German. He said I have to pay now. OK I say, pulling out the amex.
No, cash only. I laugh. There is a sign up that says you take credit card, and it says on the website that you take amex. run it.
He tells me by that it means I can take it to the cash machine and use the credit card to get cash to pay for the room. I look the man in the eye. Run the card, I tell him.
He says he can't because the manager told him the amount was too small.
I told him to get the manager on the line. Suddenly, there doesn't seem to be a problem. In fact, he already did run the card using my reservation - and just has me sign the slip. I was about to be double charged. Sounds like a nice trustworthy place to stay.
I'll get out tomorrow to explore the city, I have been looking forward to Munich for a while now.
Hotel Modern
Which you would never suspect from the website, or the reviews. Luckily, I have a sixth floor room. I closed the window, which is indeed soundproof as promised.
When I arrived, the front desk asked me to pay immediately. I looked at him, I would prefer to pay when I check out, which is how it is typically done, I said in German. He said I have to pay now. OK I say, pulling out the amex.
No, cash only. I laugh. There is a sign up that says you take credit card, and it says on the website that you take amex. run it.
He tells me by that it means I can take it to the cash machine and use the credit card to get cash to pay for the room. I look the man in the eye. Run the card, I tell him.
He says he can't because the manager told him the amount was too small.
I told him to get the manager on the line. Suddenly, there doesn't seem to be a problem. In fact, he already did run the card using my reservation - and just has me sign the slip. I was about to be double charged. Sounds like a nice trustworthy place to stay.
I'll get out tomorrow to explore the city, I have been looking forward to Munich for a while now.
Day in Zurich
Before coming to Zurich, I did some research: what to do in Zurich. My idea of switzerland are men wearing nice watches, controlling the global economy in private banking while eating fine chocolates. The banks were numerous, everywhere sold watches (in fact, I picked up a guide to Zurich and for the shopping section, it only listed watches) and the chocolate is very good.
That aside, the city was rather uninspiring. I spent almost nine hours trekking across it and up and down it, and found nothing that got me at all excited. There was a nice church with some chagall stained glass windows, and I went up on top of a cathedral type place to see the city (which is large). I saw a sailboat running up a spinnaker which was pretty sweet.
The highlight of the day was actually when I stopped to see about a linen shirt (I decided in the end it was a little bit over the top violet for me). There was a gentleman there looking at some jeans, I asked his opinion on the shirt, and we started chatting. We walked out talking, and continued for about fifteen minutes meandering down the street. At the end when he was heading off in a different direction, he was nice enough to give me his card, and asked me to email him about New York. He has a few friends that also run hedge funds, and said maybe he could help me find something. The man has lived everywhere, I was impressed with his knowledge of many places all over the world.
Had Bibimbop for dinner. It was pretty terrible. I miss good ethnic food.
Train to Munich, hopefully I will meet up with Natalie tomorrow night.
Following my hearts desires
I have decided to spend this month traveling as my heart desires, following whatever impulsive instinct I have. I purchased a europass that allows me unlimiited train travel during a short period of time. I planned this afternoon to go to Munich. Unfortunately, I didn't bring my bags to the station, instead leaving them at the hotel. I wasn't able to make the last train (I thought there was another, but I was explained what the little numbers mean, and apparently the "last" train only runs during the summer months, not including now.
I thought I would get my bags, return to Hamburg and go from there to Munich on all the night train. Then I realized, it doesn't matter, I am free. My costs are the same for the couchette, the ticket already paid for - just food when I get there, which will be comparable, why not make it interesting. Thus, I find myself writing this from my bed on the night train to Zurich. Geneva wasn't an option from Berlin direct, so I will have to hit it on the way back east. Also, been enjoying using my German and French speaking Geneva will be similar to being back in Israel. Mont Blanc is going to be very cool though, I can't wait to hopefully do some hiking around it.
Got in touch with an old friend that lives in Germany now, who is traveling to the states soon. I am hoping to send some additional things back with her (I haven't mentioned this to her yet, but I don't foresee a problem with this). I realized that I am carrying around way to many things that I have no intention of using here or in Kong Kong. Someday I will travel the way I really want to, with just a toothbrush (maybe not even, hotel's provide them anyway - at least in the states if you forget yours), and have my clothes cleaned each night and delivered in the morning. Imagine how liberating it would be to have no baggage?
I don't really know what there is to do in Zurich, but in the morning I will ask around. Conductor said he would come by about 45 minutes before arriving to wake me up.
Dumped some stuff at the Hotel before leaving, a towel that I realized was unnecessary, some free flip flops I won at the international beer festival that I was planning to use for showers and unnecessary papers I have been carrying around. I also poured out some of the laundry detergent - there was enough for maybe 25 full loads, I just want to hand wash a few things in the sink each night.
Also have a place to stay with another friend in Brussels next week. I guess I will do a little western europe - more to see friends than see western europe, which I have already traveled in extensively. It's also great to have someone to crash with.
Have I mentioned that Xan and I were doing a 100 push up challenge? I have to see where I am with it. If I time it right, I could do another day of the challenge in a different city. I started in the middle east, worked up my stamina in europe and hopefully I can finish in Asia - far east. Could be cool, different definitely.
Not in Kansas Anymore
So what happened?
The plan was always to leave Israel, check out Jordan, and then head to Egypt for some touring. I would then silently switch to my new israeli-stamp-lacking passport, and catch a flight into Damascus. See Syria, and then go into Turkey via train.
One small glitch is that I was misinformed regarding visa's for Syria and I didn't do my homework and double check.
Oh, but there is a loophole - you can go into Lebanon, and then cross the border into Turkey getting a visa at the border. It works most of the time. No more.
Oh, but there was a loophole.
On June 9th, the U.S. Embassy issued a statement warning U.S. citizens that they could no longer enter Syria without a prior issued visa - multiple individuals were stuck in Beirut.
As romantic as that sounds, I decided maybe it's not the right time, perhaps the universe is trying to tell me that the middle east will wait a little bit longer.
I went to Rachel's boyfriend (Adam's) birthday and army send off night, which was at an all you can drink wine night. Combine that with a few other factors, and I woke up after a night out with Yael with no voice, and a very sore throat.
A few hours in bed was all I needed to realize that I had mentally already left Israel. I knew there were a few more goodbyes, but I decided better to let the guilt settle in and get me to come back sooner.
I booked my flight to Berlin in the evening over the phone as I headed into Tel Aviv with a few last minute things for Dashiell for dinner. Goodbye to Katie and Xan, and I headed back to Ramla.
Less than 6 hours after, I headed to the airport, only my orange backpack and a small daypack for carrying a camera with me. By the time my friends were awake, I was back in Berlin.
It's amazing how fast the German came back. I still throw in hebrew words and phrases because they have become so ingrained (I use Rega and Beseder all the time!) but when an issue arose with paying for the hotel using a credit card, my german came forth like nothing before. When I tried to convince them (unsuccessfully) at the train station that I was living in the european union (hey, israel was a british colony not so long ago) the woman thought I was german and it was all going ok until she saw my german passport. She told me in German, that my german was excellent, she was fluent in english, but we continued the purchase auf Deutsch.
Yesterday I did a free walking tour of Berlin. I found it all rather elementary, and the people rather dull. The guide was a little over the top in theatrics, and I soon tired of his pompous nature, and left the group at the end. The only interesting story was the fall of the Berlin wall, which I had heard before, but I never really understood the extent to which the press secretary set the stage for the fall - it's one of my earliest memories, that and the gulf war in '91 (I remember my father watching the news on television in the middle room in our Dennistoun Drive house on the second floor and not being allowed to come in the room to watch as well).
Then I met up with Ruthie, a friend of both Louis and Brandon. Ruthie has been living in Berlin doing work for the Jewish Community. We had tea / coffee, and then dinner and walked. Stopped to watch some dancers doing salsa, tango, and a few other traditional dances by the pier near the museum. It was quite beautiful to watch them gracefully float in circles, nearly all the dancers were quite knowledgeable in their form.
I turned in early, and slept most of the evening - waking up once in the middle of the night. I am still getting up at very early hours, 5 or 6 in the morning, which is odd since the time difference is only one hour from Israel.
Just finished Exodus
I highly recommend the book. I remembered the story of the boat but didn't realize that it was only a small portion of the book. Follows most of the independence war. Very well written, I worry a bit that having digested these stories just as I took in the source my ability to distinguish fact and fiction from my reading will become questionable.
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Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Brief conversation with woman I ordered this from
Woman: your german is very good. I can understand you.
Me: thank you, that's amazing! Sometimes I speak and I can't even understand myself.
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Exodus
The surrounding country is a sea of green filled with traditional looking houses amidst fields.
Unfortunately a few delays on the way out, but there will be time to explore before returning for my bag waiting in Berlin. Overnight to Munchen most likely tonight.
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Monday, June 14, 2010
Sleep deprivation won
Feel like Gaudi might have appreciated this place.
Need to get better.
Oh, it's finally cold! How wonderful to be chilly.
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5 years to get this shot
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Refreshing punctuality
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I arrived in Berlin
To a cool breeze and an accordion player serenading passerbyers to the S-bahn. I have missed europe... And cool breezes.
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Sunday, June 13, 2010
Third Meal, Hamburger
"How would you like your hamburger cooked?"
"Still moving, please" I responded.
I had just come back from a wonderful afternoon with Yael and her family at their home near Gadira. Away from the sound of the city, we spent time with our legs swinging in the pool, ate a delicious meal, and enjoyed wonderful company. Couldn't have been better in any way. Also, it was a chance to spend a little more time with Yael before departing (which is imminent).
After my late third meal at Yael's house, I was sitting in a small hidden away restaurant with Xan, Katie, Yonni and Rachelle - another farewell type dinner. That's where I asked for my medium rare burger by putting it in a way I thought they would understand it, and got a burger that was still alive I think. It was a nice change from the few burgers I have had in Israel, which are served almost crispy. Fries well done was not so much a success, but still good.
Fast forward - back in the apartment we started a gave of Puerto Rico. Without the aquaduct in play my strategy that allowed me to win (by a single point!) last time failed miserably. It did show me how much that piece is worth, cementing that in.
I left and found Liza, and then after she had a bite while I drank lemon and water for my throat, Sasha and her friend joined us. We walked a little down to listen to some live music on the boardwalk, and it turned out Liza knew the guy there. He was the brother of the groom of the wedding she was at this past weekend.
There was a lot of speaking in Russian and Hebrew.
Marina returned from her dance recital, and I headed off to the central bus station. It wasn't until 3 sheruts had already passed that one stopped and had room. At the bus station, I played the patience card. They know me at this point, and invited me to come sit where the chairs are and a table. A game of cards started as we waited. Someone tried to get me to pay extra to cover the empty seats. The driver told them that I never pay more, that I am content with waiting, I even bring a book. He knows from other nights.
At a little to 4 I arrive home. I was happy to make sure Liza was alright, and keep her company until late - but I am little worried that it cost me some points on the health scale. I woke up all night, my throat burning from deep breaths.
This morning I awoke and am now into my second cup of throat coat which luckily someone has here - Izy I think. Unfortunately, we have no honey. I might head out to buy some today - but I need to weigh the costs and benefits of such a trip to the store. If I am up for it, I will head out later from this mold filled apartment which definitely isn't helping. My plans to leave today are thwarted, even my secondary plans to visit my family with Dashiell.
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