What a letdown. You arrive, and are rushed in. The email from the office of the head rabbinate told me to be there at exactly 10:30AM. I arrived at that time, showed my passport, and went in. There were some people leaving and it seemed like a tour, so I sat for a few minutes inside guessing that another tour for those of us set to come at 10:30 would begin shortly.
"It's finished!" the woman kept saying to me after a few minutes, trying to get me to leave. I was told to come at 10:30 I responded, and continued to sit and look around. It's not a particularly interesting synogogue, save the bema, which is shaped like a ship and supposedly done to either commemorate Noah and his Ark or the Jews leaving Spain and coming to Turkey via boats.
The rest is standard, benches, and some windows. So, it's the history that of course would make it come alive. It really needed some context in my opinion, having traveled all the way just for this.
She kepy shooing me out, and finally another guided tour that came in let me know that tours were given time slots, and that other groups would be arriving. My single presence would apparently disrupt, and I needed to leave.
I realized no questions would be answered, no information given, so I left, and got on a bus.
Oops! wrong bus, we crossed the Goldern Horn and I found myself quite closet to the Jewish Museum. As I was saying, the problem is that these are really designed for a goy, they talk about Jewish life like keeping kosher, and show a Menora. No ancient remnants of Jewish culture, like the dead sea scrolls. I guess you have to go to Israel for that.
I checked out the bookstore in the basement for a few minutes, then left, and walked back towards the spice bazaar. I had some minor purchases to make, some small things. Very small things in fact.
After, I stopped in at a Mosque for a few minutes of peaceful resting. I love the mosques, how they are open and inviting, with the big carpets. I feel bad after walking all day, sometimes I don't think my feet are that pleasant. I almost want to suggest for everyone's good that some people be able to keep their shoes on.
I rested, and then started to walk back - stopping to have some fresh orange juice along the way.
After getting back, I tried calling Ciya Sofrasi - the restaurant that my aunt, Paula Wolffert, suggested for me to go to, and to say hi to her friend the owner / chef. I finally got through which was great, and put in a reservation for tonight. It should be fun, the restaurants get lively in the evening because of Ramadan, everyone rushes in to eat after the call to prayer.
I had to speak with a couple people, but once I found someone, they were very warm, and told me where to come and when. 8PM I will be dining there this evening!
I was debating another Hamam this afternoon, but I think I don't have any skin to peel off yet - or at least not enough dead skin to make it worth going. Of course, I don't think they really got very deep yesterday, but it's more satisfying when you really exfoliate. I would bring my own k'iss though, which is a bit rougher - the one I bought (but never used, it was provided for) in Morocco.
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