Late night in Marrakech

Tonight, I had a series of strokes of good luck. It began with a chance introduction. The owner of the Riad, who I hadn't officially met, was entertaining her family over some food and drink. Her brother has not returned to Marrakech where he was born in almost 50 years. And now, he has arrived with his son, Nikos.

They invited me to join them in the courtyard for a cup of tea. I was hardly finished when they decided to go out for a drink. Haven't not ventured from the riad, I accepted their invitation, and off we went. The owner drove us far from the Medina. It was like something out of south beach, a chic restaurant out on the highway that was also very much like a club. One mojito turned into 5 or 7, I am not really sure. I listened to the french, and some was translated.

We discussed things like Obama and starting a recording business in Marakech. We sat at many tables, and had many drinks. It was my first real moroccan experience, away from the tourists and the souks.

Finally, around three we retired to the Riad where we opened another bottle of wine. I think at this point I was adopted into the family, invited to the major holidays, some birthdays, and inducted. We sat with our feet in the pool and swallowed in the wine, conversation and the wonderful ambiance.

At four, we broke rank. I turned to bed to write about my evening, while I listen to the continued chatter outside in french. I want nothing more at the moment than to command the french language. Perhaps, I can devote this year to learning languages. We shall see what opportunities present themselves.

I asked for a 9AM breakfast (I have no commitment until 5PM, when we are leaving for Rabat), though I can't imagine getting up in a a mere few hours. Perhaps if I will myself to awake, at the promise of good company to explore with, I will be able to rise from my pillow. If not, there is packing and other assorted things to take care of before I leave.

Marrakech has become better and better with the events of this evening. I was finally able to see a whole new side that had been previously hidden from my eyes and ears.

Smoke

From above I see now that I chose the only smokey one.
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Riads, Train Tickets and Ferries

I had a great conversation with Nabil Kahn last night regarding Morocco - what to do, where to go, who to meet up with. Lots of very useful information, I only wish that he could join me for this adventure. I also contacted a fulbright(er) and heard back where they will be while I am in the region. I am hoping to cross paths while there and see another side of the country that otherwise might have remained hidden from an english speaking short term travel.

Where to stay is the big question. I have looked into hostels, hotels and riads. While the latter portion of my journey I plan to be more free, I am constrained in time with Morocco and so I am trying to get the most out of it. Riads look amazing, and expensive. If anyone has suggestions, please send them along.

Fes and Marrakesh are both on the list, but I also want to see a smaller town, that hasn't been as over run with tourists. There is a musical festival I learned from writing to SG in Essaouira next weekend that she and another college friend will be attending. Would be fun to catch up with them there, experience that and see a smaller town.

As for getting to Madrid, I had the amex concierge look into things. For the first time, in a long time, they gave me reliable and useful information regarding the ferries and trains. They strategically planned a few different options for me to arrive in time for program and site orientation, maximizing my time on the other side of the Strait of Gibralter.

Meanwhile, looking ahead I emailed my aunt, who is known for writing cookbooks in the Mediterranean region, about things that I must do / places that I must visit during my travels. Reading through the introductions of her books, especially the one on Couscous, is the underlying reason I had the strong urges to include Morocco in my travels and booked my flight to spain through North Africa.

She suggested lonely planet as a jumping off point, and then sent me an article on a place to eat in Istanbul. The title alone was mouth watering, Çiya: Loquat Kebabs and Mesopotamian Truffles at Istanbul’s Culinary Shrine, and I realize already this trip is going to have a sweet and delectable ending.